How to print with Wargamer

1. Parameters

Find the right exposure times for your 3D printer using a validation test.

We recommend starting from 2.5s normal exposure time and 30s bottom exposure at a 50 micron layer height.

We strongly advise using 2s of "rest after lift" and "rest after retract" times. This will help the resin settle under your build plate before each layer.

(In Lychee these are called "wait after lift" and "wait before print". In older printers, that only support "light-off delay", please use 4s. Read more here.)

If you're new to resin printing, and you have no idea what we're talking about, you can learn more in FauxHammer's video.

2. PPE

Always wear appropriate PPE (personal protective equipment) when handling resin.

This includes nitrile gloves, safety goggles and a respirator. Minimise your skin exposure by wearing long sleeves and trousers.

3. Temperature

Wargamer is intended to be used at temperatures between 20-35°C.

If your ambient temperature is significantly lower than this, consider using a heating method.

You can read more about temperature on our blog.

4. Mixing

Always mix your resin before use. Shake the bottle or stir it inside the vat.

Some ingredients inside the resin naturally settle to the bottom, like bits in orange juice. Mixing the resin makes the material uniform again, which is optimal for printing.

Shaking will usually create some bubbles inside the resin. Wait about 10 minutes until these have dissipated before starting your print.

5. Printing

Pour in carefully, and start your print.

Do not leave the resin bottle open for too long. Extended exposure to air and light deteriorates the material.

If you need to add more resin to the vat, make sure this is the same temperature as what is already inside.

Once printing is finished, retrieve the part as soon as possible. If left for a long time, it could start soaking humidity from the air around it.

6. Washing

You can choose between washing with water or IPA.

The end result will be the same - a nice clean print.

Water washing is more manual, but a more pleasant experience.

IPA is technically easier to clean with, but it means an extra (stinky) chemical to deal with.

We recommend IPA to professionals and other heavy users.

  • 6.1. Washing with water

    Use a spray bottle to wash the print with clean water.

    Catch any dripping ‘dirty water’ in a tray.

    The total wash time must not exceed 1-3 minutes. Otherwise the print will start to soak itself with water, which makes it soft and weak.

    We don't recommend using a wash station or just dunking into a tub. Once your water touches liquid resin, it immediately becomes contaminated, and will not clean properly.

    Using a spray will also create much, much less wastewater.

  • 6.2. Washing with IPA

    (When we say IPA, we refer to any chemical solvent like methylated sprits, Mean Green etc.)

    IPA washing for Wargamer is the same as for any standard resin, except

    • the total wash time must not exceed 1-3 minutes, and
    • the print needs to be thoroughly dry before curing.

    You can learn more in this video.

6.3. Dealing with dirty water/IPA

Any liquid mixed with resin is toxic.
Do not touch it with bare hands, and do not wash it down a drain.
Water can only be used once for cleaning. IPA can be reused many times, but it will eventually be too cloudy to use.
The contaminated water/IPA needs to evaporate, leaving just resin behind. This is best done by leaving the mix outside in the sun in a wide tray/container.
The water/IPA will evaporate, while the sun's UV rays will cure any leftover resin on the bottom. The cured resin can be safely thrown away.
If leaving it outside is not an option, putting a fan in front of the container is a cheap way to speed up evaporation. Any leftover resin can also be cured with a UV light.

7. Drying

Dry your print very thoroughly. Do NOT skip this step. Wet prints will come out sticky and soft.

Drying time will be influenced by how long the part was washed, how thick it is, as well as the temperature and relative humidity of the air around it.

  • 7.1. Active drying

    Pat away most of the moisture with paper towels or a cloth.

    Dry thoroughly with a blow dryer, blow dryer oven, food dehydrator, filament dryer, electric dish dryer etc.

    Drying temperature must not exceed 60°C, as this may lead to the softening of the print.

  • 7.2. Air drying

    Pat away most of the moisture with paper towels or a cloth.

    If washed with IPA, leave for a few hours. If washed with water, leave overnight.

    A fan can greatly speed up the process.

8. UV curing

Post-cure for 5-10 minutes using a UV chamber or UV light.

The optimal curing time will vary by the exact device you use and your ambient temperature, but 5-10 minutes is a good rule of thumb.

It should now be safe to touch the part with your bare hands.

9. Coating

Spray the print with a primer or sealer.

The coating will protect the print from absorbing moisture from the air, which could lead to softening or cracking in water washable resins.

Non-water-based primer is preferable.‎

Primer is also necessary if the finished part will be painted.

10. Waiting

Wait 24 hours before applying considerable force to your print.

Resin undergoes serious chemical changes during the printing process, and needs some time to dissipate internal stresses.

Your print is safe to handle now, but it will only achieve its full potential after a few more hours of rest.

11. Storage

Liquid resin must be shielded from air, light and humidity.

If leftover resin in your vat will not be used again for over 24 hours, it should be poured into an air- and light-proof container.

This can be the original resin bottle, but if the used resin is somehow contaminated, this will contaminate any fresh resin you had left. Use a filter when pouring. Keep the bottles in a cool, dry place away from sunlight.

Finished prints should be shielded from moisture and direct UV light.