WARGAMER BY FAUXHAMMER

Read The F*cking Instructions

👋 Hey! If at any point you're not sure what to do, just ask us. Silly questions welcome.

1. Parameters

Find the right exposure times for your 3D printer using a validation test.

It's tempting to just copy someone else's settings, but it isn't really helpfu. There is almost as much variation between individual machines as there is beetween different makes and models.

Begin the validation process by using a base resin profile for your printer, changing only these values:

  • layer height: 50 micron (0.05mm)
  • normal exposure time: 2.5s
  • bottom exposure time: 30s
  • rest after retract ("wait before print"): 1s

If you're new to resin printing, and you have no idea what we're talking about, you can learn more in FauxHammer's video.

Please don't use the Cones of Calibration test, as it can lead to inconsistent results with flexible resins like Wargamer.

If you'd like some more guidance, or want help reading an exposure test, just contact us. We're happy to help.

2. PPE

Always wear appropriate PPE (personal protective equipment) when handling resin.

This includes

  • nitrile gloves
  • safety goggles
  • respirator
  • long sleeves and trousers.

3. Temperature

Wargamer is intended to be used at temperatures between 20-35°C.

If your ambient temperature is significantly lower than this, consider using a heating method.

You can read more about temperature on our blog.

4. Mixing

Always mix your resin before use. Shake the bottle or stir it inside the vat.

Some ingredients inside the resin naturally settle to the bottom, like bits in orange juice. Mixing the resin makes the material uniform again, which is optimal for printing.

Shaking will usually create some bubbles inside the resin. Wait about 10 minutes until these have dissipated before starting your print.

5. Printing

Pour in carefully, and start your print.

Do not leave the resin bottle open for too long. Extended exposure to air and light deteriorates the material.

If you need to add more resin to the vat, make sure this is the same temperature as what is already inside.

Once printing is finished, retrieve the part as soon as possible. If left for a long time, it could start soaking humidity from the air around it.

6. Washing

You can choose between washing with water or IPA. The end result is the same, but the workflow is a bit different.

Water washing is more manual, but a nicer experience.

IPA is less work, but a stinky chemical to deal with.

We generally recommend IPA to professionals, and water to hobbyists.

In either case, do not wash the print in direct sunlight/UV light. This will semi-cure the unwashed liquid resin, and leave the prints sticky.

  • 6.1. Washing with water

    Spray the print with clean water using a spray bottle. Catch any dripping wastewater in a tray.

    (great demo video by Micron Monster)

    ‎

    • ‎Total wash time per piece should not exceed 1 minute. Wargamer cleans very easily. Washing it for a long time will NOT make it cleaner, it will make it soak up liquid and become sticky.
    • Make the spray strong and quick. You just need to remove the liquid resin left on the surface of the print, without making the print itself very wet.
    • Make sure to clean hollow prints on the inside too.
    • We don't recommend using a wash unit or dunking into tubs. The water inside gets 'muddy' immediately, and will not clean as well. A spray also creates much less wastewater.
    • The print needs to be bone dry before curing. If it feels overly sticky, it is most likely still wet. See below for drying. A minimal amount of tackiness is ok, this is usually just because it hasn't been cured yet.

  • 6.2. Washing with IPA

    You can wash Wargamer in IPA just like any standard resin. (example)

    ‎

    But look out for three things:

    • Use at least two stages of cleaning. (Eg. 30s pre-rinse + 30s wash in clean IPA)
    • Total wash time per piece should not exceed 1 minute. Wargamer cleans very easily. Washing it for a long time will NOT make it cleaner, it will make it soak up liquid and become sticky.
    • Make sure to clean hollow prints on the inside too.
    • The print needs to be bone dry before curing. If it feels overly sticky, it is most likely still wet. See below for drying. A minimal amount of tackiness is ok, this is usually just because it hasn't been cured yet.

🤔 Prints still sticky after washing and drying? Contact us for help.

6.3. Dealing with dirty water/IPA

Any liquid mixed with resin is toxic.
Do not touch it with bare hands, and do not wash it down a drain.
Water can only be used once for cleaning. IPA can be reused many times, but it will eventually be too cloudy to use.
The contaminated water/IPA needs to evaporate, leaving just resin behind. This is best done by leaving the mix outside in the sun in a wide tray/container.
The water/IPA will evaporate, while the sun's UV rays will cure any leftover resin on the bottom. The cured resin can be safely thrown away.
If leaving it outside is not an option, putting a fan in front of the container is a cheap way to speed up evaporation. Any leftover resin can also be cured with a UV light.

7. Drying

Dry your print thoroughly. It must be bone dry inside and outside.

Do NOT skip this step. Wet prints will come out sticky and soft.

Wargamer needs a bit more time to dry than most other resins.

  • 7.1. Active drying

    Pat away most of the moisture with paper towels or a cloth.

    Dry thoroughly with a blow dryer, blow dryer oven, food dehydrator, filament dryer etc.

    Drying temperature should not exceed 40°C. High heat will start to melt your prints, and make them feel sticky. If they feel stickier after drying than before, cool them down with cold air before curing.

  • 7.2. Air drying

    Pat away most of the moisture with paper towels or a cloth.

    If washed with IPA, leave for a few hours. If washed with water, leave overnight.

    A room fan or leaving the print outside can greatly help this process.

8. UV curing

Post-cure for ~5 minutes using UV light.

Shorter curing times will leave the prints more flexible.

Longer curing times will make the prints stronger, but also more rigid.

5 minutes usually gives a good balance between the two, but you can vary this based on your equipment and preferences. 1 minute should be minimum for safety.

After curing, it should now be safe to touch the part with your bare hands.

9. Coating

Spray the print with a primer or sealer.

The coating will protect the print from absorbing moisture from the air, which could lead to softening or cracking in water washable resins.

Non-water-based primer is preferable.‎

Primer is also necessary if the finished part will be painted.

10. Waiting

Wait 24 hours before applying considerable force to your print.

Resin undergoes serious chemical changes during the printing process, and needs some time to dissipate internal stresses.

Your print is safe to handle now, but it will only achieve its full potential after a few more hours of rest.

11. Storage

Liquid resin must be shielded from air, light and humidity.

If leftover resin in your vat will not be used again for over 24 hours, it should be poured into an air- and light-proof container.

This can be the original resin bottle, but if the used resin is somehow contaminated, this will contaminate any fresh resin you had left. Use a filter when pouring. Keep the bottles in a cool, dry place away from sunlight.

Finished prints should be shielded from moisture and direct UV light.

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